They always seem to cost so much more, for so much less in the jar??? So, I did a lot of research whilst studying dermatology into facial anatomy, skin biology and physiology.
Well, I discovered the skin around the eyes is fundamentally the same as the skin on your face except it's thinner! It creases more readily due to the repetitive actions of the eye muscle known as the orbicularis occuli and the fact that it is thinner therefore more susceptible to creasing. Just like tissue paper.
Using an enriched moisturiser with good quality humectants (water binders, think glycerin), occlusives (think medical grade lanolin, shea butter, cocoglycerides ) and emollients (silicones like dimethicone) should suffice. A well formulated rich night cream can double up as an eye cream. That’s what I’ve done with my Concentrated Hydration+ cream. Eye cream, night cream, replenishing cream all in one. Backed by restorative lanolin and boosted with vitamin B3. Clinically proven amounts of B3 in 5% concentrations. No point having an active ingredient in there if it's not in the right amount or won't work.
Saves time as well. I like my products to be multi-purpose. Hence, why I don’t like SPF in moisturisers as it limits night time use.
Another dispelling myth is not being able to use your actives under the eyes.
A lot of actives CAN be used around the eyes.
I use my AHA/BHA Concentrated Clarifier serum under my eyes every morning. Just a drop or so and delicately pat in. Then apply the Concentrated Moisturiser over the top. Moisturiser over the top acts as an occlusive and helps the actives penetrate, whilst plumping up the epidermis at the same time.
At night I use the Concentrated Illuminator 10% Vit B3 and 10% Vit C combination under my enriched Concentrated eye cream / night cream Hydration.
The AHA/BHA and Vitamin B3 and C vitamins will do all the repair and rejuvenating work while the enriched moisturiser over the top will plump up and rebuild the epidermis and strengthen the barrier.
You also want to start early to prevent the thinning and creasing of this skin. Don’t wait until you see the signs kick in.
Another tip is wearing occlusive dressing at night to the area. There are a lot of “expensive” silicone eye pads coming onto the market.
Having had to fix damaged skin with fractionated and ablative lasers (which work very well in this area to fix lines and rebuild collagen), I learnt the powerful effect of putting something occlusive on the skin.
We use duoderm and cut it into little patches that sit nicely under the eye. The skin heals amazingly producing line free skin.
So if you want to go that extra mile, get extra thin duoderm. Cut them out in a shape that sits under the eyelid, covering the lower lid. Put on my serums, then moisturise, then wear the patch at night. Check out the difference when you wake up… You can reuse them. Even if you think they are not as “adherent” when you reapply the next night they stay on beautifully.
If the damage has well and truly set in (lines, thinning, darkening) then your best investment is laser.
As a preventative step, little doses of botox to the crows feet can help prevent development of creasing under the eyelid skin BUT, in general, don’t botox directly into the lower eyelid skin. It can over weaken that part of the muscle that holds the fat pads back and you can end up with worsening bags under the eyes.
Always go to an expert.